A client recently asked me about the different grades of leather — full-grain, top-grain, suede — after a trip to a furniture store turned into a mini masterclass from the sales associate.
And honestly, I loved the question. Because if you’ve ever found yourself wondering what those terms actually mean (and which is better), you’re not alone.
So, let’s take it from the top — how leather goes from hide to handbag, and what makes one piece feel timeless while another falls flat.
Full-Grain Leather: The Real Deal
Full-grain is the gold standard — the highest quality cut of the hide. When a hide is split horizontally, the entire top layer is kept intact — including the outermost surface known as the grain. This part contains the strongest, most durable fibers and the natural markings that make each piece unique.
This layer does not get sanded or buffed, which means every little variation stays visible. That’s what gives full-grain leather its rich depth and character — and why, like a fine wine, it only gets better with age.
You’ll find full-grain in many of our structured handbags and bespoke belts — pieces meant to last for years (and tell stories while they do).
Top-Grain Leather: Polished and Refined
Top-grain leather starts with that same upper section of the hide but gets a light sanding to remove imperfections. The result? A smoother, more uniform finish that still feels luxurious but a little more polished.
Think of it as the “effortlessly put-together” version of leather — perfect for small accessories and travel pieces that need to look sleek and stay durable.
Split Leather: The Supporting Layer
Once the top layer of the hide is removed for full- or top-grain, what remains beneath is called split leather — a thinner, more fibrous layer taken from the lower section of the hide.
On its own, split leather doesn’t have the natural grain surface that gives higher grades their strength and texture. It’s often coated or embossed to mimic that grain — but it won’t age or wear quite the same way.
Still, when used intentionally, split leather has its place. It’s flexible, lightweight, and often serves as the foundation for suede.
Suede: Soft, Velvety, and Oh-So-Boteri Blue
Suede is actually made from split leather — specifically the underside, where the fibers are soft and open. Once buffed, this creates that velvety nap we all know and love.
We use suede most often for interior linings, especially in our signature Boteri Blue turquoise. It’s durable enough for daily use yet soft enough to make opening your bag feel like a small luxury moment.
Where full-grain is structured and enduring, suede adds that quiet, sensory indulgence — a little softness to balance the strength.
Tanning 101: Where It All Begins
Before leather becomes leather, it has to be tanned — essentially “preserved” so it’s durable, flexible, and ready for decades of use.
There are two main approaches:
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Vegetable Tanning:
A natural process using plant-based tannins from tree bark and leaves. It’s slow, eco-friendly, and produces beautiful, organic tones that develop a rich patina over time. -
Chrome Tanning:
A faster process using chromium salts that makes leather soft, pliable, and color-consistent. When done carelessly, it can be harmful to workers and the environment — but our LWG-certified tanneries in Spain and Italy keep everything tightly controlled.
LWG certification means:
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Wastewater is treated before it ever leaves the facility.
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Chemicals are safely handled and disposed of properly.
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Workers have safe, non-toxic conditions.
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Energy and water use are minimized.
So yes — chrome tanning can be toxic, but in the right hands, it doesn’t have to be.
Modern tanning, done responsibly, can be both beautiful and sustainable.
From Texture to Tone: The Finishing Touches
Once tanned, the leather moves into what we call finishing — the step that brings out its texture, color, and personality.
Some hides stay completely natural — that’s full-grain. Others get a light polish, a hint of texture, or a protective topcoat to bring out their best features.
Here’s where you’ll hear terms like corrected, pebble-grain, aniline, and semi-aniline. They all describe how the leather is refined and finished.
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Corrected or Pebble-Grain Leathers:
After tanning, some hides are lightly buffed to smooth out imperfections, then heat-pressed with a subtle texture — like the pebble effect you’ll see on many of our bags. Think of it as leather’s version of a blowout: enhancing the surface, not hiding it. -
Aniline & Semi-Aniline Finishes:
Once the texture is set, color is added. Aniline leather is dyed with transparent, soluble dyes that let every grain and pore show through — buttery soft, breathable, and naturally patinated over time. Semi-aniline leather adds a whisper of protection — a thin, water-based topcoat that keeps the look authentic but adds durability (that’s the sweet spot we love most). -
Pigmented Leathers:
For leathers that are embossed or need more structure, a pigmented finish is used — still thin and breathable, but slightly more polished and color-consistent.
Every finish we use is applied by our LWG-certified European tanneries using non-toxic, water-based formulas that enhance the natural beauty of the leather — never masking it in plastic.
A Note on “Vegan” Leather
Let’s address the elephant in the showroom.
We love the innovation happening in the world of leather alternatives — but right now, most “vegan” leathers are heavily plastic-based or simply don’t meet our standards for aesthetics or longevity. In other words: they don’t feel (or age) like luxury.
Until there’s a truly bio-based, plastic-free alternative that performs as beautifully as it looks, we’re choosing to work with responsibly sourced, LWG-certified cowhide — produced with intention, care, and transparency.
The Bigger Picture
We know the leather industry isn’t perfect — especially when it comes to animal welfare and industrial farming. It’s something we think about often and hope to see evolve in a better direction.
For now, our commitment is to progress over perfection: working only with partners who meet the highest environmental and ethical standards, while continuously seeking better, cleaner solutions for the future.
Because luxury, to us, isn’t about excess — it’s about intention. And craftsmanship done consciously will always stand the test of time.